京都旅行四日目。
今日は『五感の欲求を満たす旅』最終日。美しいものを見て美味しいものを食べた後は、気持ちのいい空気と風とを感じて散策しよう。そんなテーマの1日です。
大原の里の名跡を訪ねる
いい声のあの歌が甦る 大原 三千院
ミシュランガイドにも9年連続で掲載されたという『料理旅館 芹生』さんで朝食をいただいた後、チェックアウト前に三千院を訪ねようと靴を履いていると玄関で仲居さんに声をかけられました。
時刻は8時半、お寺は早朝から開門していると思いきや、コロナ禍にあって最近は開門が9時になっているそう。一旦部屋に戻って荷物をまとめ、改めて9時に宿を出ます。
芹生さんの敷地を一歩外に出るとすぐ目の前が三千院。あの名曲が頭の中をぐるぐるし始めました、デューク・エイセスの『女ひとり』。でも歌詞を知らないので歌いだしの部分を何度もリピート（笑）
三千院は最澄上人が比叡山延暦寺建立の際に草庵を結ばれたのがはじまりだそうで、仏教音楽・声明（しょうみょう）発祥の地であり、念仏聖による浄土信仰の聖地といわれているそうです。
国宝『阿弥陀三尊像』を収めた往生極楽院の前に広がる聚碧園（しゅうへきえん）は青々しい苔でおおわれ、脳内がいい刺激で満たされていくような心地がします。
この日の気温は暑くもなく、寒くもなくちょうどいい。
紅葉や桜の季節ではないけれど、明るい緑の青紅葉の季節も心地いい。
聚碧園 は江戸時代の茶人が修築した『池泉鑑賞式庭園（ちせんかんしょうしきていえん）』といわれ、杉木立の中の苔の大海原と紅葉が有名、あじさいと山吹も季節には見事に咲くそうです。
寝ころびたくなるような苔の絨毯♬
お茶がいただける休憩所もあって、もっとのんびり苔と戯れたかったのですが、チェックアウトの時間が迫っているのでここで引き上げることに。
哀愁漂う 大原 寂光院
宿を後にし、景色を楽しみながら建礼門院ゆかりの『寂光院』に向かいます。
濃い緑と朱塗りの橋のコントラスト、本当に美しい。町も静かで車も人も往来が少なくて静かなのは日常の風景なんでしょうか？
名跡の数々を、のぞき見。
覚悟はしていたものの、思った以上にかさんだのが『拝観料』。小銭で用意していった方が便利と思い貯めていた500円玉およそ7,000円分が、この頃にはキレイに無くなっていました。
後から知りましたが、一定の神社仏閣の拝観料がお得になるチケットがあったらしく、こういうものを活用したかった！
宿から一旦バス停に戻り、三千院とは逆方向に『寂光院』を目指して歩きます。
民家が点在するのどかな道を歩くこと約30分。天台宗の尼寺で、聖徳太子が御父・用明天皇の菩提を弔うために創建されたという寂光院に到着。
寂光院は創建当時から代々高貴な家柄の姫君が住職を務めている尼寺で、第三代の建礼門院徳子は平清盛の息女であり高倉天皇の中宮にして、安徳天皇の母。
源平合戦で一人生き残った後、平家一門とわが子安徳天皇の菩提を弔い、終生この地で過ごしたということです。遠い昔の話で神話のように思えてしまいますが、こんなことが自分の身の上にふりかかったらと考えると、痛ましい。
火災の被害にあっている寂光院ですが、本堂前・西側の庭は『平家物語』当時の姿のまま残っているそうです。その庭の片隅に『諸行無常の鐘』。
鐘が建立されたのは江戸時代なので当時の物ではありませんが、祇園精舎の鐘の声、諸行無常の響きあり…この一説が思い出されます。余談ですが「鐘の音」ではなく「鐘の声」と書くセンスに脱帽！
本堂西側裏手の建礼門院の庵室跡の方へ歩いていくと、これまた見事な苔の庭。
ぽつんと立つお地蔵さんが寂しそうで…。このお寺には異常なほどの哀愁が漂っています。
お寺の敷地を出て、同じ通りに面した小さな門から長いなが～い石段をあがっていくと徳子さんのお墓があります。とっても静かな場所なのでいまは安らかなお心でいらっしゃることでしょう。
大原 風と一体のカフェ
寂光院を後にし京都市街に向かうバス停に向かう途中、朝は閉まっていたカフェがオープンしていました。こじんまりとした小さなカフェですが、窓が大きく取られているので自然と一体になっているかのような心地よさそうな空間。
今日のお昼は何も決めていなかったので、一度通り過ぎた後、ここでランチにすることにしました。
『4種のチーズとはちみつのピザ』。
コーヒーはおかわりして1時間半ほどのんびりとしたいい時間を過ごしました。カフェ『KULM』さん、風が通り抜ける気持ちが良くて美味しいお店でした。
KULM
京都市左京区大原来迎院町117
11:30-16:00 不定休
公式サイト：https://kulm.kyoto/
京都市内をもう少し 本能寺跡
大原は小規模のようですが温泉地でもあるようです。
寂光院近くには泊まってみたくなるお宿がいくつか。焼き物を体験できるようなショップもありましたが、月曜だからかコロナのせいか、閉まっているお店が多い。
そんな中、ランチビュッフェで賑わっているお店もありました。
郷愁を感じる景色に後ろ髪をひかれながら京都市街に向かうバスへ乗り込み、途中地下鉄に乗り換え四条烏丸へ。
コロコロを引っ張りながら街中をさがし歩いていたのはこの『本能寺跡』。現在の本能寺は移転したもので、本能寺の変が起きた当時の場所はそこから数百メートル離れた場所。
今は石碑が残るのみ。
あの世紀のクーデター、『本能寺の変』の明智光秀の本懐が解明される日はくるんでしょうか。
知りたいような、知りたくないような。
『麒麟がくる』聖地巡礼のあとはお土産タイム。錦市場に向かいます。
友人宅で『青実山椒』をいただいてからすっかりファンになり、定期的に通販で購入している『京こんぶ千波』さんで青実山椒と人気のラー油きくらげを購入。
もっといろいろ試しに買ってみたいと思いつつ、「いつもの」に落ち着いてしまう保守的な自分です。
京こんぶ千波 公式通販サイト
https://kyoto-chinami.com/
無事お土産物を確保した後は18時過ぎの新幹線の時間まで京都駅ビル内でお茶。
元気だったらギリギリまで観光名所をまわろうと思っていたものの、もうギブアップです。
とにかく長い間訪れていないうちに情熱をこじらせ、スケジュールを詰め込み過ぎたのが今回の旅の反省点。肝心な時にガス欠を起こしていました（笑）
これだけ各地を巡ることができてだいぶ気が済んだので、次回の京都はもう少し余裕を持った『しっとりオトナ旅』にしたいと思います！
ここまでお読みくださり、ありがとうございました♬
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